![]() ![]() Newer vehicles, with the fuel pumps in the tank, cannot vapor lock either. Since your motorcycle is gravity fed, it cannot have vapor lock, at least in the strict definition. This prevents any liquid fuel from being pumped into the carburetor. The fuel pump, instead of receiving liquid fuel, receives only the vapor coming from the boiling fuel. The fuel, at the lower pressure than atmosphere, boils in the fuel line. I recommend pleasant." Elwood P.TEchnically, vapor lock is when, during high temperature conditions (usually under the hood of a car) combined with the suction of the fuel pump, create a vacuum in the fuel line. "In this world, you must be oh so smart, or oh so pleasant. My pump doesn't require a spacer but a thin one, or doubling up the gasket, should help reduce heat transfer from the block. I did notice, while trying to diagnose the problem, that my fuel pump was quite hot to the touch. There should be fuel at least up to the pump. I had a VL earlier this season and couldn't figure out why my lines where completely dry. ![]() The car has always had the single ZS carb and the factory heat shield and those two occasions were the only time I had any vapour lock issues. I am sure people will find that hard to believe, but it seemed that the pump could become hot enough for fuel to vaporize when the engine was not using much of it. ![]() After the second of these incidents I put the aftermarket pump with its spacer back in place and the problem went away. The car became prone to vapour lock in very slow moving traffic on hot days. Many years ago I replaced the aftermarket fuel pump on my 1979 car with an OEM pump, which was still available at the time. Good luck.ĭoes your mechanical fuel pump have the spacer block? Not sure it will solve your problem but it just may be the answer you're looking for. The solution to "that" problem was to drill a tiny vent hole to the top of the fuel bowl cover. What seems like a hundred years ago I had a 1953 Mercury with a flat head eight that suffered from vapor lock. I'd take the vapor canister off the tank and figure another way to vent the tank if needed. That's the only emission hardware remaining on the car. Does anyone see an issue if I run the line back to the tank using the line that goes from the tank vent canister to the charcoal canister. I'm figuring I'd need to run a second line back to the tank with a backflow prevent valve. I don't want to install an electric fuel pump. I'll insulate the fuel lines, wrap the headers, and make a better heat shield but I'm wondering about adding a vapor separating fuel filter between the mechanical pump and carb. I have a heat shield on my ZS carb but that's it. It hit 95 here in Ohio today and my spitfire 1500 is not happy. Driving in the city is a pain in the butt when the engine is always dying at stop lights.Įdited 1 time(s). Granted, I'm running dual HS4's and Bell SS headers, so you might have better results with the heat insulation.įor me, however, I think an electric fuel pump is my only option at this point. I still get vapor lock, although perhaps not as bad as before. None of these things have solved the problem. Not to mention that I'm running on pure gas, not the ethanol stuff. And just recently, I had my headers ceramic-coated by Jet-Hot (their coating reduces heat by about 50-60%). I also have the heat shield between the carburetors and the headers. I rerouted the fuel line to the front of the engine. My fuel line and carb float bowls are insulated. I've tried everything that you're about to do, and it hasn't solved my problem with vapor lock. ![]() You may have to get the electric fuel pump. Hopefully, header wrap, fuel line insulation and a better heat shield will solve the problem. Jul 08 Chassis Reassembly + Alternati.Jul 28 Finally Have My Spitfire On Th.Sep 30 MDMGs On The Rocks British Car.Sep 23 NCBCCWNC Autumn In The Mountains.Sep 16 DEBCCD Annual Fall Car & Motorc.Sep 10 NYJaguar Invitational Concours.Sep 03 NYAutumn Sports Classic Super C.Aug 27 NYMGCC Sports Car & Auto Festival. ![]()
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